PXN W AS | Sim racing wheel mods for VD4 VD6

Check fitment before removing the stock wheel

A serious upgrade should feel engineered for the platform, not forced onto it. Before you remove anything, hold the new formula wheel mod in front of the stock wheel and compare the overall shape, mounting area, and rear clearance. Pay attention to the paddle shifters, center hub, and any trim around the button plate.

This quick dry check tells you a lot. If the rear of the mod looks like it will press into the paddles, or if the center mounting area sits unevenly against the wheel hub, stop there and confirm compatibility. Good fitment should line up naturally without needing pressure, bending, or improvised spacers.

Removing the original PXN wheel rim

The exact hardware layout can vary by model, but the process is usually simple. Turn the wheel so you can clearly access the mounting screws on the face or rear section of the original rim. Remove them carefully and support the wheel rim with your free hand as the final screws come out.

Do not let the rim drop or twist away under its own weight. That can put unnecessary strain on the mounting points or any internal plastic around the hub area. Once the stock rim is free, place it aside somewhere safe. If you ever want to revert to the factory wheel or sell the base later, keeping the original rim in good condition helps.

At this point, inspect the exposed mounting surface. Look for dust, burrs, or anything that could stop the new mod from sitting flush. A clean contact surface matters more than people think. Even a small obstruction can create a slight tilt, and that tilt becomes obvious once you're driving straight.

How to fit a PXN W AS Formula Wheel Mod correctly

Now bring the formula mod into position and align it with the mounting holes. The key here is patience. A proper PXN W AS Formula Wheel Mod should sit into place with clean alignment, not with force. If you have to push hard, rotate aggressively, or hold one side down while pulling the other into position, something is off.

Start all screws by hand before tightening any of them fully. This matters because tightening one screw all the way first can pull the wheel slightly off-center and make the remaining holes harder to line up. Thread each screw in just enough to catch, then tighten them gradually in a cross pattern so the wheel seats evenly.

You want the fit to be firm, not over-torqued. Cranking down too hard can stress plastic mounting points or damage threads, especially on consumer wheel ecosystems where tolerances are tighter than on high-end motorsport hardware. Tight is good. Forced is not.

Once the rim is mounted, check it from the driver's position. The wheel should look centered, level, and evenly spaced around the hub. If one side sits closer to the button housing or the top edge looks slightly rotated, loosen the screws and reseat it before moving on.

Check paddle and button clearance

This is the part many racers rush, then regret after the first lap. Before powering the wheel back on, pull both paddles through their full travel. They should click cleanly and return freely without rubbing the rear of the wheel mod.

Next, check access to the front buttons, rotary controls, or directional inputs if your PXN layout includes them. A formula rim changes hand position significantly compared with a round wheel, so make sure your thumbs can still reach the controls you actually use during a race. If your most-used functions become awkward, that is worth addressing now rather than adapting around a poor setup later.

Also rotate the wheel lock-to-lock by hand and listen for any contact or creaking. A quality install should feel solid and quiet. Small noises often point to uneven seating or a screw that has not fully settled.